We are starting with a New counter weighted 69mm crank shaft.
Lets get started, we have our new 69mm counterweighted crankshaft and re-built connecting rods. Both of these pieces are covered with cosmolene so they will not rust. We are going to put them in the hot tank to get this off.
Now we are ready. We use an engine stand with a welded to a piece of pipe, the we screw the flywheel end into it. This allows us to rotate the crank while we work on it.
Parts you might need - link to category Crankshafts & Parts
Above right we have all the pieces ready to assemble on the pulley side of the crankshaft. Jackson really like to keep the pieces he is working with well lubricated to prevent any scaring from sliding parts on and off.
The first item to go on is the main bearing (Your bearing size is determined on how much you have aligned bored the case) We cut this case .020 oversized. There is only one bearingin the box that will fit this first journal. (Notice the dowel pin hole goes to the rear of the crank.) Then our large woodruff key is next. When using a new crank, sometimes the key needs to be filed down a touch to fit snug but not to tight.
Next to go on is the cam gear. This gear needs to be heated up to expand the size. Once hot it will slide on easily. On this gear, one side is chamfered/tampered. This side goes toward the flywheel or rear of the crankshaft You will also notice your two timing indents face the front.
Then your spacer slides on after the cam gear. Next your heated distributor gear goes on. These must be hot enough to expand the metal but red hot. The Cir clip or snap ring is next to lock these gears in place. Then you have front main bearing and again notice the oil galley is toward the rear.?
Almost done with one end, next is the oil slinger and then the final small woodruff key.
Once you get your laid out you will notice that each rods has identifying marks.
Each set has numbers on both parts of each rod, to prevent mixing them up. Each rod is individually sized to themselves. You will also know how the rod bearing fit in because of the tangs notched in each rod
You will also notices a casting mark that runs parallel with the rod. These marks are always up when assembling your crank. (We will get back to this. We have put rod bearing on both sides of a rod and installed them on the crankshaft. (notice the circled casting mark).
We use red lock tight on the stud before torquing the nut to 24 lbs. Please use a torque wrench when tightening up your . It is just as harmful to over-tightening them as under-tightening.
We repeated this process three more times and double check that all the rods rotated smoothly. We now have a completed crank assembly. Thank you, thank you very much!