Tech Article – Spring plate/torsion bar removal.
Submitted by our foum member “treelineracing”
Folks, Don asked me to post this, hope it s of some assistance….
So you need to remove you rear torsion bars, or spring plates, or maybe change the pre-load on the suspension ?
Had the same need myself a while back, and came across some info that may be helpful.
If you already know to do this, or have some other info or suggestions, then feel free to add, ask questions, or provide comment.
Firstly a disclaimer: – the following also is intended to be a guide only, I’m not a trained mechanic,
but I do maintain my own buggy, and have attempted to use both of the following techniques, one more successfully than the other.
If you attempting these activities, you do so at your own risk,
and I accept no liability for anything that may occur, other than the smile on your face when it works correctly.
Parts you might need – link to category Rear Suspension Parts
Pedal cluster – removal and installation
On models that have a manual transaxle, the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are mounted on a common shaft which is bolted to the left side of the center tunnel. There s no clutch pedal on models equipped with an Automatic Stick Shift – the brake pedal is wider and has two arms attached to a common bushing.
Unhook the clutch cable from the clutch release lever at the transaxle.
Parts you might need – link to category Pedals and Parts
IRS Tranny Removal and Replacement
Place the shift lever in first or third gear.
Take out the rear seat and unhook the negative cable from the battery.
Remove the inspection cover for he shift rod coupling and take out the bolt behind the coupling.
Move the shift lever to second or fourth in order to unhook the shift rod from the coupling.
Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands. Take off the rear wheels (swing axle models only).
Drain the transaxle fluid.
Take out the engine.
Disconnect and plug the rear brake lines.
Use a chisel to make alignment marks on the spring plate and the axleshaft bearing housing to ensure proper realignment during reassembly, on all models with swing axles.
Parts you might need – link to category Transaxle Parts
Progressive Weber Carburetor Set Up
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions.
The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and
over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.
CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR.
AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
Start set up by confirming carb base line settings.
Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged.
Parts you might need – link to category Performance Carburetor Kits
IDF Carburetors Low Speed Circuit Tuning
It is most important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding
and the linkage opens to full throttle and is allowed to close to the Idle Speed Screw.
This is the number one and two reasons for tuning errors, improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing binding in the linkage assembly.
The Individual Runner carbs, IDF, have individual Idle jets and mixture screws for each barrel.
They also have an additional air bleed screws and lock nuts. This is not used for idle adjustment or idle quality.
The settings for these screws should be closed.
Standard IDF Settings:
Parts you might need – link to category Performance Parts
Tech Article – Shift lever and shift rod – removal and installation
Make sure you obtain the correct replacement part if you re replacing the shift lever.
On vehicles produced before August 1967, the lever is straight; it s curved on later models.
Don’t try to swap levers from one model to another unless they re identical.
The lever on 1973 and later models is about 1-1/2 inches shorter than those on earlier models.
Mark the position of the stop plate in relation to the ball housing after pulling back the floor mat and putting the shift lever in Neutral.
This will ensure proper alignment during installation.
Caution: Incorrect adjustment of the stop plate in the shift lever assembly can cause shifting problems.
Tech Article – CV Joint – overhaul and boot replacement
Note: The following procedure applies to either CV joint on either driveaxle.
Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands.
Take off the driveaxle(s).
Place the driveaxle o a clean working surface.
Work around the outer circumference and dislodge the collar form the joint housing, using a punch and hammer.
Paint or scribe across the components so they can be reinstalled in the same relationship.
Take off the snap-ring form the end of the axle.
Parts you might need – link to category CV’s and Drive Axles
Installing a Headliner in a Beetle
Tools necessary for this job is a pair of sharp scissors, a heat gun (a strong hair dryer will help),
razor blade and upholstery adhesive. Start by laying out the large headliner in the sun for a couple of hours,
as this is one job that is better done on a warm day to keep the vinyl malleable.
Another step you should consider is to sound proof the top.
Installing a headliner isn’t easy, there’s a lot of steps, but it isn’t impossible either.
There is a certain anxiety one feels whenever glue is applied to anything, feeling as
though you’d better hurry before the glue dries and then you’ll be out of luck getting it to stick.
Well, that just isn’t so with upholstery glue as its tackiness depends on heat and time.
Sure it will set up after a few hours, but for 30 minutes or so, it is free to work with.
By taking your time and proceeding thoughtfully,
you will have a professional looking headliner to be proud of.
This task in easier with the seats removed
Parts you might need - link to category Headliners
Parts you might need – link to category Clutch Cables
Tech Article – Rear Swing axle boots replacement
Place jack-stands securely under the vehicle after raising it.
Take off the hose clamps from both ends of the old boot and cut it off (but don’t bother to remove the screws that attach the seam).
Wipe off the axle tube retainer and the axle tube.
Put on a thin layer of sealing compound to the mating surfaces of the new boot.
Slip the new boot into place, carefully. Be sure not to get oil on the mating surfaces of the seam.
Tech Article – Swing Axle Tranny Removal and Replacement
Parts you might need – link to category Transaxle Parts
Note: You can remove and install the axle tubes and axleshafts with the transaxle installed in the vehicle, but it s not recommended. In order to determine the clearance at the inner end of the axle tube, you need to be able to swing the axle tube around freely. That s hard to do with the transaxle installed on the vehicle. It s also hard to install new gaskets or shims from under the vehicle without damaging them. Lastly, it s really hard to prevent dirt from getting into the differential.
Parts you might need - link to category Link Pins and King Pins
Parts you might need - link to category Stock Clutch Cables
Parts you might need - link to category Carburetor Jets
Someone wrote with problems with the 34 PICT/3 carburetor on his 1600cc twin-port engine (new manifold boots and gaskets, new plugs and leads, 009 centrifugal-advance distributor). I have read lots on the common “flat spot” problem (stumbling at low-rpm acceleration) and have tried the adjustments, but I still have the flat spot. I have opened up carburetor and checked the float, needle valve and seat — all okay. I also cleaned and blew out all visible rubbish. The motor seems to idle okay, but it spits and coughs when accelerating. If I up the size of the main jet and idle jet by one size or two will this help?
Parts you might need - link to category Ignition System
Parts you might need - link to category Stock Carb Replacement Parts
We are starting with a New counter weighted 69mm crank shaft.
Lets get started, we have our new 69mm counterweighted crankshaft and re-built connecting rods. Both of these pieces are covered with cosmolene so they will not rust. We are going to put them in the hot tank to get this off.
Parts you might need - link to category Crankshafts & Parts
Checking for Vacuum Leaks
Leakage of air into the intake manifold can be an exasperating problem. This phenomenon occurs because the pressure inside the intake manifold is lower than atmospheric pressure. If there are any holes in the manifold or at any of the connection points, then air can be sucked into the manifold, causing the fuel-to-air mixture to become too lean.
Air being sucked into the intake manifold can cause -
The car acts like it’s not getting enough fuel; i.e., running too lean.
The car may run well at highway speeds, but the engine dies at idle and will only idle at higher than normal rpm (e.g., >1200 rpm).
Removing an Engine from a Beetle
We would like to show you how to remove an engine from a Beetle. Whether you have an early beetle or a late model beetle, removing it from the car has the same principals.
We had a late model car come in that the engine had to be pulled out. Now our service guys have been removing engines from VW’s for 50 years, well maybe a little less since we are not yet 50 . But if this is your first time it would be helpful to know what to expect.
There are 4 bolts holding the engine on to the transmission. The studs go through the engine case first, meaning the nuts will be on the transmission side. There are studs that stay in place on the engine in the lower position. The two on top are bolts. Also there is an input-shaft coming out of the middle of the transmission that goes directly through the pressure plate into the pilot bearing.
Tech Article – How to Properly Break In Your VW Engine
Many people do not understand the importance of the following the appropriate steps to prepare an engine to run for the first time. The steps are very important, and can mean life or death for a high performance engine (no kidding). The information in this article can also be a useful guide to starting an engine that has been sitting for a long period of time, since it ensures proper oiling before the engine fires. Engine Assembly Use good quality engine oil (20-50 or 30 weight) to coat all bearing surfaces, as well as the surfaces of moving parts they contact.
Tech Article – Testing your Coil.
Submiited by our forum member “strokedVDUB”
To check your existing coil, first make sure you have 12V going to the terminal 15 on the coil (Terminal 15 is positive, terminal 1 is negative (think of 1 sideways being negative). If you do, then pull the wire out of the center of the distributor with a rubber handled pair of pliers, and hold it about 1/4″ from the metal clips that holds the distributor cap on.
Parts you might need - link to category Ignition System
This is a great article by Speedy Jims
US VW s had 6 Volt systems up through the 1966 model year. Often, it’s desirable to convert these cars to a 12 Volt system to have brighter lighting, better starting or in order to add modern sound systems. Of course, if originality is a concern, you would want to keep the old 6 Volt system working.
This article goes into what is needed for the conversion and pitfalls to watch out for.
Parts you might need - link to category Performance Breather Systems
Parts you might need - link to category Performance VW Ignition System
Parts you might need - link to category VW Oil Cooling Systems
Parts you might need - link to category Stock Ignition System
Tech Article -- Valve Adjustment Procedure.
Parts you might need - link to category Gasket Set & Seals
Note: This procedure needs to be done every 3000 miles without fail! Keeping the valves adjusted will make your VW run forever (well, almost). What you are doing when you “adjust the valves” is adjusting the clearance between the rocker arms and the valve stems.
Note:We strongly recommend that you read this procedure through in its entirety before commencing to adjust your valves. It is well to understand what you are doing as you go along.
Click here to continue reading this article…